RB26 S13 – Not a GTR Alternator

My original reconditioned GTR alternator was murdered by wiring so I needed a replacement. I picked up something with a little more power this time.

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A few years ago I read about a guy in the U.S fitting a Quest alternator onto his RB26. The standard R32 GTR alternators like the one I have come in at 90amp, while R33/R34 are 110amp. I found a few other options from Powermaster in the states at 130amp as well as the RH9 version at 130 amp but they are both $800+ once it gets shipped here. So instead of bankrupting myself, I looked around for any other possible options. I didn’t want to get another reconditioned alternator, it wasn’t going to cut it for my setup.

I didn’t just want a bigger alternator, I needed one because:

A) I have three big fuel pumps that each draw a lot of power.

B) My SPAL thermo fan alone draws 20amps.

C) Accusump. Nitrous. Gauges. They all draw power. Look what’s in the boot and you get a better idea.

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Add all of this together while running the car at high revs and you can’t expect it to last long. Putting in another factory 90amp alternator and pushing it to it’s limit brings on countless possibilities but none would do me any good. Would I have a high risk of losing fuel pumps causing the engine to lean out and detonate? Or could I lose the Accusump right at a time when I need it? Or maybe the alternator could starve the thermo fan of power mid corner and things could get very hot, very quick. Every way you think about it, that was a chance I didn’t want to take. The solution was to get an alternator from overseas that cost me almost the same as a replacement GTR piece.

A brand new alternator off none other than a U.S made Nissan Quest. $227 to my door.

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Ever seen a Nissan Quest? No? Niether have I because I live in Australia. But lucky for me, the alternator is a 125amp option and has so many similarities to the GTR alternator that fitting it is a walk in the park.

They even look the same. I know alternators all mostly look the same, but look at it!

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After I pulled off the GTR alternator I had to do a couple bits before the Quest alternator could replace it. First thing was swap the pulleys over as the Quest runs a 5PK rather than a 4PK setup.

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Next up was to check the electrical side of things. From all the research I did, it looked like both alternators shared the same plug design.

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Well, they were in different spots but they looked the same so should still work right?

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Yep!

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That was a big tick in the winning column!

Next was a bracket to mount it. Now, before you think ‘why not reuse the RB mount?’. Things are never that simple unfortunately. While both pieces may look identical, the hole sizes and threads are slightly different. I picked up some steel hex, a pair of rose joints, some nuts and a left hand thread tap so I could make up this turnbuckle mount.

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It works the same was as the factory mount but makes life a lot more simple and gives me easier adjustability when I need to change belts.

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Quick test fit to see how it was looking.

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Yes that’s a screwdriver acting as a bolt.

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The end locator on the lower mount needs to be swapped over from the GTR alternator so I can reuse the bolt because it looks like the Quest uses an M8 instead of an M10 bolt.

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See what I mean about the difference in hole size?

As well as that, the front locator hole needs to be opened up to match the bolt.

One of the final bits to do was modify the original GTR spacer for the lower mount. Unfortunately its a bit big to fit over the Quest internals so it needed a bit of shaving to fit properly.

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A bit of time grinding it down and we were set to go.

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Final test fit!

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All looked good.

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Pretty happy how easily it all went together and I’m happy with the power output. Now I’m one step closer to getting it ready for the rewire. If for whatever reason the 125amp alternator isn’t up to the job then I think I need to reassess how overkill this car is. Any drift car that uses more than 125amp is ridiculous.

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2 thoughts on “RB26 S13 – Not a GTR Alternator

    • You’ll need a LH and RH thread M10 or 3/8 nut, a pair of 10mm or 3/8 LH and RH rose joints, some 12mm hex (about 60mm long) and both LH and RH taps in M10 or 3/8 for the hex.

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